30 Amp vs. 50 Amp Power Cords – Which One is Yours?

Why is it you can only run one air conditioner at a time on the  30 Amp power cord but if you have the 50 Amp power cord you can operate both air conditioners?

Then we hear other RVers use the terms Amps? Volts? Watts? What does all this mean?  You just want to sit and enjoy the scenery but instead you are sitting in the dark?  How can you determine the limits of your RV electrical systems?

There are 3 electrical systems in your RV

• 12 Volt DC (direct current - automotive type battery) that runs the exterior running lights, stop lights and turn signals of your coach.  On a trailer they are powered through the 7 way pin connector from your tow vehicle. On a motorized unit they are powered by your chassis alternator and battery just like your car.
• 12 Volt DC (direct current - deep cycle battery type) that powers all the 12 volt lights, fresh water pump, circuit boards for your appliances, propane detector, room slide outs and powered leveling jacks. The converter (fancy battery charger) that takes 120 volts AC like we have at home wall receptacles and changes it to 12 volts DC for this deep cycle battery.
• 120 Volts AC (alternating current like we have at home) that powers the air conditioner, microwave, electric element in the water heater, ceiling fans and wall receptacles and the AC to DC converter.  This 120 Volts AC gets its power from the 30 or 50 amp power cord we plug into the pedestal shore power or generator.

Most electrical products have a label or plate on them that list voltage, amperage and sometimes the watts it will use.  What does all that mean?

Voltage – is the “push” that the electricity has.  Voltage is the same to electricity that water pressure is to a water system.  Voltage is either 12 volts DC (direct current) or 120 volts AC.

Amperage - is the flow of electricity.  Amperage is the same to electricity as gallons of water flow is to a water system.  The size and length of the wire carrying the amperage or current determines how much flow we can have.

Wattage or Watts – is the power of the work that can be done.  Watts is figured by taking the voltage and multiplying it by the amperage.

Every electrical device has a wattage or power rating.  For example: We rate our generators by the wattage they produce.

Recreational Vehicles come with one of two power cords.  The power cord is either rated at 30 amp or 50 amp at 120 volts AC.

50 amp & 30 amp Power Cord

So if you Rig has a 30 Amp power cord, you will have a 3,600 Watts or 3.6 KW (kilowatts) to run all your 120 volt AC appliances.

The 30 Amp power cord has a black wire as it power leg, white wire as its neutral leg and a green ground wire.

If you Rig has a 50 Amp power cord, you will have 12,000 Watts or 12 KW (kilowatts). Yes you read that correctly….12,000 Watts of Power available to use.

The 50 Amp power cord has 2 hot or power legs.  One is black and the other is red.  Each hot leg is capable of carrying 50 Amps.  One white wire is the neutral and the other wire is the green ground wire.

Typically, motor homes and 5th wheels will have the 50 amp power cord to handle their power requirements.  It is the ‘extra’ power that allows you to operate that 2nd air conditioner.

It is surprising how fast your AMPS add up which cause your circuit breaker to trip. Sometimes the individual circuit breaker for those powers appliances will trip other times it is the main circuit breaker that goes.  When you locate that tripped ciricuit breaker you flip it to the OFF position then back to the ON position.

Typical Power Requirements for your RV Devices

Air Condition – 15,000 BTU                       12.5 amps x 120 volts= 1,500 watts

(your air conditioner will somtimes pull 20 to 30 amps to get started)

Electric Water Heater – 6 gallon               12.5 amps x 120 volts= 1,500 watts

Microwave Oven                                             12.8 amps x 120 volts= 1,536 watts

Electric Coffee Pot                                                9 amps x 120 volts= 1,080 watts

Toaster                                                                   10 amps x 120 volts= 1,200 watts

Hair Dryer                                                             10 amps x 120 volts= 1,200 watts

TV                                                                               2 amps x 120 volts=     240 watts

Dirt Devil hand vacuum                                    2 amps x 120 volts=     240 watts

Electric Frying pan                                          10 amps x 120 volts=  1,200 watts

Iron                                                                        10 amps x 120 volts=1,200 watts

Food Processor                                                     6 amps x 120 volts=  720 watts

Crock Pot                                                              1.5 amps x 120 volts=   180 watts

Heating Pad                                                           .5 amps x 120 volts=      60 watts

Take a minute and  figure how much power you are using. It is suprising how fast it adds up. You can trip your breaker and be in the dark.

We must become good managers of our power usage so we can enjoy the RVing Lifestyle.

It’s our job to help you keep your wheels rolling…we’ll see you down the highway!!!

Order the 6 hour Electrical Course by clicking here!

Dear Terry and Evada,  

I recently purchased your Gold Club DVD set. When purchasing items on the internet, you never know what you will actually receive. However, I took the chance and certainly glad I did. The DVD’s arrived quickly and within the first few minutes of viewing the first DVD, I was sold.

After watching all of the DVD’s, I was able to fix some existing problems with my own RV and able to help 3 other people fix problems on their RV’s as well. The DVD’s paid for themselves within the first 3 weeks.  

The most frustrating part about owning an RV is encountering a problem with it, then calling the RV repair shop only to hear them say they cannot get you in for repair for 2-3 weeks. I am confident that I can fix 80% of my RV problems now.

Anyone that presently owns a RV or planning to purchase a RV soon, should consider purchasing these DVD’s. Please keep me informed about any upcoming class or new DVD’s that you are offering.

Thanks for your help.    

Sincerely,

Larry Rodgers

Book - RV Repair of your Atwood Water Heater

ATWOOD RV WATER HEATER REPAIR BOOK

This 191 page manual is part of the Texas RV Professor’s “Take-Home Technician Series” with complete details on how to troubleshoot, diagnose and repair the Standing Pilot and Electronic Ignition (DSI) Atwood RV Water Heaters.

Very easy to follow descriptions, photos, and charts. The Texas RV Professor and his sidekick Roady the RV Dog have written this manual so you will feel you have taken a technician home with you and he is looking over your shoulder, guiding you along. A must have manual for the RV do it yourselfer that owns an RV equipped with an Atwood Water Heater.   

BUY ME HERE!

We now have all 8 - RV Maintenance Take Home Technician Series Courses available in our store for purchase in one bundle. These are the course title included in this bundle.

• RV Electrical
• RV Plumbing
• RV Propane
• RV Refrigerators
• RV Air Conditioners
• RV Water Heaters
• RV Furnace
• RV Exterior

Regular price for all these courses if you purchased separately would be  $576.00 but in this bundle you are receiving almost a 50% discount taking the sale price to $297.00  This is a set you will want for your library so you can do the work yourself.

RV Inspector Course

Looking to buy an RV? Or have you one you need to maintain?  Take a look at the Professor’s library of new products on DIY that are now available in the STORE.  Remembering that 80% of the work that is done on your RV can be done by YOU if someone will just show you how.

So let the Professor guide you step-by-step from buying your RV to maintaining your rig. 

•  *RV Inspector
• *Knowing Your RV Electrical Systems
• * Becoming an Certified RV Walk Through Technician
• * RV Appliance Maintenance (4 pack DVDs)
• * Know Your RV – A Guided Tour
• * Texas RV Professor Shows You How
• * Atwood Water Heater Repair

Tails From the Highway!

Sorry it’s been so long since I’ve written. I just haven’t been myself lately.  Once I heard from my good friend, Chuck, I wanted to share the exchange.

He wrote:

Roady,

Something weird is happening.  Sometimes when Harold and I are pulling our travel trailer, there’s this horrible screeching and screaming noise that comes from behind the truck.  It seems to be cyclical and it seems to be worse when we slow down.  Harold doesn’t really seem to notice, but I promise you it’s there!  What’s going on?

                                                                                       Chuck

“Chuck,” I replied. “There are two possible explanations for your problem.

The first is your trailer brakes are sticking. This is the least likely explanation, but I’m obligated to mention it because the Texas RV Professor thinks that’s the problem and talks about it in his Webinars and his Did You Know Tech Tips at the MobileRVAcademy.com.

The second, and most likely, explanation is you have a chicken infestation in your trailer.  I know what you’re thinking. You’re asking yourself how I could know this so quickly. 

Let me tell you about what happened to me recently …

One evening not too long ago, the Professor and I went to visit the professor’s brother, Pete, on his farm.  After I sat around in the living room with the humans for a while, I got bored and hungry.  So I went to the pantry and had a snack of cookies and chips. I really wanted some cheese doodles and I looked everywhere, but there weren’t any, not even on the top shelf (that’s where the Professor usually puts them).  After four or five minutes of searching, I gave up and made a nice bed out of some rolls of paper towels.  I grabbed a can of soda from the pile on the floor and was quietly licking the leaks from the bite marks when Pete yanked the door open.  He immediately started having a fit! He was pointing and yelling for the Professor, shouting something incoherent about his wife and when she got home.

I have to say right here I had no idea she wouldn’t want me sleeping in the pantry (it must be some sort of rural custom).  I always try to be a good houseguest, so if I’d known she was so particular about her personal space, I certainly wouldn’t have encroached.

Needless to say, the Professor and I were both very embarrassed.  I went to the back door and offered to go outside, thinking it might defuse the situation somewhat if I got as far away from her pantry as possible. The Professor opened the door (oh, for opposable thumbs!), and I crept off into the night in disgrace.

It seemed prudent to go to a small building just outside the yard. The door was kind of small, about Pekinese-sized, but I managed to squeeze through. It was quiet and dark, which was a relief after all the commotion in the house. I stood inside the door for a moment, just catching my breath and letting my eyes adjust to the dark.

I hadn’t been inside more than five seconds when I heard a strange noise. A squawky kind of “brrrr-auck” sound.  Then it happened again.  It was closer! That crazy noise sounded again, but now to my side! There were two of them, maybe more! I still couldn’t see very well, but I could discern a shadowy movement coming at me. It wasn’t very large, but it was coming fast and the noise it gave was horrifying… a long screech of indignation and fury!

Suddenly, the sides of the shadow exploded outwards and the beast tripled in size! It was almost upon me and I could only tuck, duck, and roll as it launched itself at my face!  Immediately, another attacked from the side. Then another!

What had seemed like a safe haven only seconds before had suddenly become a den of terror.  All I could do was hunker down while being flayed by talons and beaks.

All the while the ear-splitting screeching and squalling continued, compounding my disorientation. I wasn’t able to defend myself, and truthfully, I don’t know what defense would have been possible. The attacks were relentless. I would detect movement and a split second later one of the creatures would attack. I was flogged, first from one direction and then the other. As soon as a beast seemed to tire in its abuses, another would rally from the other side, or the rear, or even from above (yes, they appeared to be able to fly or leap!).  Sometimes it seemed as if eight or ten of them were upon me simultaneously. It was terrifying.

It’s hard to know exactly how long it lasted, but I do know eventually they seemed to tire.  I tried to stand, thoughts of escape whirling in my brain as I staggered toward the door.  But my way was blocked, and the attack began again immediately, with more ferocity.  I knew then I was lost.

To make a long story short, I spent the entire night with those fiends looming over me.  At one point, one of the larger ones jumped up onto my back.  I twitched under the grip of its claws biting into my shoulder blades and gasped as I felt it settle down into sleep, confident in its status as conqueror.

It was a long night. I tremble just thinking about those endless hours in the darkness, hearing the Professor calling my name over and over, wanting desperately to run to him and the safety he offered, but knowing I was held captive by those foul specters of the night.

At long last, daylight broke. The creatures became restless and began moving about.  I was afraid the attacks were about to begin again as the monster on my back rose to his feet, stretched, and issued an ear-splitting crow of triumph. Amazingly, upon his signal, they rose as one and trooped from the building, exiting with contented clucks and murmurs.

As soon as the last of them was gone, I poked my head out the door. They were meandering off through the tall grass, no doubt to hunt for fresh meat. 

I wouldn’t have known what the beasts were if the Professor hadn’t said I smelled of ‘chickens’ when he was giving me a bath later that morning. I’ve been trying not to think about the incident, but I believe it’s vital the truth come out about chickens…  So thank you for writing, Chuck.  It’s been healing for me to talk about this.

As you can see, it’s important you do something about this chicken problem. NOW.  Find a trained professional to handle the problem. Do not delay!

I’m sending you a six-pack bottle of Roady’s Toilet Water in case your mouth is dry after hearing my story. It’s not blue and is best served in the safe confines of your coach after the exterminator has been by.

This is Roady saying goodbye for now. Keep your wheels rolling, and those letters and photos coming!

Workamper New University and Mobile RV Academy have scheduled the start of the new 10-Month RV Maintenance Program, the Gold Star Club,  February4th through November 30th, 2010.

The program gives all RV Enthusiast an opportunity to becoming educated in a vast array of RV maintenance topics that will give everyone the edge they need to be successful while perusing the workamping dream.  If you are currently a full-timer or dreaming of becoming one then who better to invest your money in… than yourself! 

 Master Certified RV Technician, Terry Cooper – owner and instructor of Mobile RV Academy tells us that 80% of our RV Maintenance issues can be resolved ourselves.  So because of that fact, he has design a maintenance program for the average RV consumer. Want to know more? Click here.

 Here is a list of the RV Maintenance course available to take online at your convenience during this 10-Month Gold Star Club.

• Propane System
• Absorption Type Refrigerators
• Exterior Inspections & Repairs
• RV Furnace
• Servicing Your Air Conditioner
• Water Heaters
• Water Systems
• Electrical Systems

           There are also two extensive courses on ‘How to make Dollar$ on the road’….to help with a new career or just to supplement your current income.

• Becoming a RV Inspector
• Becoming a Certified RV Walk-Through Technician

All courses were developed and recorded in 2009 with live attendees.  Now they sit in a library waiting for you to access with handouts, post test & homework.   Everything needed to be successful in learning how to ‘do-it-yourself’ when it comes to RV maintenance is right there at your fingertips.   The cost of the program is 50% less than in 2009.  What a value!

 If you didn’t have the opportunity to be with Terry Cooper at the Free Tele-class back on January 7^th, it was recorded and is available to watch/listen.  You can read more about the program also.      

As a bonus there are 20 live events scheduled in 2010 on ‘How to make your RV experience one you will love’.  If you should miss any of these events, the recordings will be placed in the library alongside the maintenance courses to be accessed at your convince. All of this at no extra cost.  (The 1st event “Buying & Selling it Right” is recorded and placed into the library. You don’t want to join the club? The event can be purchased separately.)

Make your 2010 the best that it can be.  Investing in education is…Investing in Yourself!

Terry Cooper – America’s RV Expert

As in all things that are done well we need a system or a procedure that we need to follow so we do not forget anything. With each coach being a little different sometimes a standard checklist for one make and model may not apply for your specific unit. 

The following checklist is to help you develop your own list for your specific RV. This list may not be a comprehensive list but will help you set up a plan to prepare your unit for the cold winter months. Personally, I like to start at the top and work my way down. I prefer to go from the outside to the inside of RV.

Roof Area – Think Safety !!!!!!

• Use Dicor or one of the other approved roof sealants. Limit your usage of silicone caulk.

• Roof patch material can go a long way to seal damaged areas to buy you time so you can determine if you need a roof replacement.

• Take photos of any damage

 ___ Wash the roof and exterior of your coach with non-petroleum based cleaners.

 ___ Inspect the condition of the roof material. You are looking for surface cracks or the alligator look of the membrane material

___ Inspect the seals and seams. Pay particular attention to the edges and seams on the front and rear of your coach for separations and for and scrapes that may occurred in your travels.

 ___ Inspect around the vents and skylights. A small crack or pin hole here can cause big $$ in repairs.

____ Inspect around the TV and radio antennas. If you have satellite look for areas of water pooling.

___ Inspect the refrigerator vents and sewer vent caps. Look for damaged or missing components.

Air Conditioner – Upper unit(s)

 ___ Check the coils for bend or damaged fins. A simple straightening of the fins can greatly improve the efficiency of the unit.

___ Check the cover for cracks or damage.

Exterior Walls and Doors

 ___ Look for evidence of wall damage.

___ Inspect around the awning rail and support brackets. These areas are places that water comes into the sidewalls and causes interior rot and wall separations.

 ___ Look for any areas that the awning may be trying to pull away from the sidewall/roof area.

___ Inspect around the tops and sides of the windows and doors. Look for dried or missing sealants.

 ___ Inspect the gutter rails. This may the time to see if you need to install the scuppers on the ends to carry away the water.

___ Access doors and water heater doors areas. Inspect for areas where sealants are missing or have dried and pulled away.

Slide-Out Units

___ Extend the slide outs and monitor their movement. Look for any areas that are dragging or not running smoothly.

___ Inspect for damage and the condition as you would a roof. Slide out roof materials are usually the same as the coach roof.

___ Inspect the corners and edges of the “box”. Cracks and separations allow water to come in.

___ Inspect the trim and gaskets. This is a good time to put gasket lubricate on them.

Nose Cones and Rear Caps

 ___ Inspect for any crack or holes.

___ Inspect the seams and joints. Sealants may have dried and cracked.

 Jacks and Stabilizers

___ Look for bent or damaged units.

___ Lubricate the moving parts.

Interior of the Coach

• Top to bottom and front to rear inspection. Room to Room.

 • Now is the time to really look behind and inside of the cabinets and closets.

___ Inspect the ceilings and walls. Water damage may show up here.

___ Inspect cabinets and doors. Look for damaged drawer glides, latches and hinges.

 ___ Inspect the cabinets for separation or any water damage.

Fresh Water System

• Only use non toxic antifreeze – usually need 2 to 3 gallons for the average coach.

• Water heater by pass kit.

• Determine whether you are going to use the water pump to pull antifreeze into the water lines or to use the backfill method from a faucet.

• Turn off the water heater – allow the water to cool. Think Safety!!!!

___ Disconnect the fresh water city water hook up

 ___ Turn off the water pump

 ___ Open the drain valve to the fresh water tank

___ Open the hot water and cold water drains. In some cases there may be a plug rather than a valve.

 ___ Remove the water filter cartridge or use canister plug to by pass the filter assembly.

 ___ Open the drain plug on Water Heater and drain the tank.

___ Flush toilet. By operating the toilet you are releasing water that is inside the flush mechanism.

 ___ Unscrew shower hoses and allow water to drain out. * Don’t forget to drain shower hose of the exterior shower.

 ___ Open all faucets through out the coach.

Waste Tanks

 ___ Drain the tanks. Black first and then the Gray and Galley tanks.

 ___ Flush Rinse the tanks with a wand or tank washer.

___ Inspect the valve assemblies. It may be time to replace the blade valve and gaskets.

 ___ From the monitor panel check the sensor probes for correct reading. You may need to re-rinse the tanks to clean the probes. If after rinsing and you still have a problem you may need to troubleshoot the sensors and monitor panel.

 Antifreeze Installation

 ___ Turn the Water Heater By-Pass valves in position to by-pass the tank.

___ Using the pump or the back fill method now draw the antifreeze into the water lines.

___ Close the each faucet as antifreeze appears.

 ___ Flush the toilet to draw antifreeze into the flush mechanism.

___ Pour antifreeze down each drain into the P-Trap Propane System

___ Turn off the DOT cylinders or the ASME tank

___ Remove DOT cylinders if local codes or storage facilities require.

Appliances Water Heater

 ___ Should still be turned off from draining but make sure it is not operating

___ Install wasp screens over the vent

OR

 ___ Cut out cardboard to cover and tape the opening then close door.

Furnace

___ Turn off the furnace at the Wall Thermostat

 ___ Install wasp screens over the vent

OR

 ___ Tape over or foil over the inlet and outlet of the furnace.

 Refrigerator

 ___ Remove all perishables from the refrigerator

___ Turn off the refrigerator

 ___ Install spacers to block the door(s) open for air circulation.

___ Install cardboard insert in the air intake of the side wall vent

OR

 ___ Install wasp screens over the holes of the vent panel

Range

___ Turn off the range

 ___ Clean the surface and the grease catch panel.  Help keep rodents out.

Electrical Power Systems

12 Volt DC System

Option #1 Leaving Batteries in place – * the batteries must remained charged

___ Fill the batteries with distilled water

___ Fully charge the batteries

___ Hook up a solar panel trickle charger to maintain the batteries

OR

___ Hook up a battery trickle charger that is powered by 120 volts

Option #2 Removing Batteries

___ Fill batteries with distilled water

___ Place batteries on a trickle charger to maintain their voltage level

120 Volt AC

 ___ Turn off panel box circuit breakers

 ___ Unplug coach power cord from pedestal power source

___ Cover or store the cord out of the weather.

Generator

___ Clean

___ Add fuel stabilizer

___ Start and run the generator to draw stabilizer into carburetor

 ___ Plug exhaust pipe with tape or steel wool

 ___ Unscrew spark plug(s) and spray engine fogger oil to lubricate cylinder * this is one of those personal preference issues.

Placement of Coach

 ___ Place coach tires on plywood sheets or plastic panels to prevent ground to tire contact.

OR * another personal preference issue

___ Lift coach up off the ground to not allow tires to touch

___ Install tire covers to block sun light UV deterioration of the side walls of the tires.

___ Install coach canvas cover over the body of the coach. * another personal preference issue.

Motor Home Specifics

___ Test engine antifreeze strength.

Service per manufacturer recommendations

 ___ Check windshield washer fluid – drain and/or fill with non toxic antifreeze

___ Top off fuel tanks

___ Add fuel stabilizer

___ Start engine up and draw fuel stabilizer into the fuel carburetor or fuel injectors

 ___ Unscrew spark plugs and spray engine fogger oil to lubricate cylinders * this is one of those personal preference issues.

___ Block exhaust pipe(s) with tape or steel wool