30 Amp vs. 50 Amp Power Cords – Which One is Yours?

Why is it you can only run one air conditioner at a time on the  30 Amp power cord but if you have the 50 Amp power cord you can operate both air conditioners?

Then we hear other RVers use the terms Amps? Volts? Watts? What does all this mean?  You just want to sit and enjoy the scenery but instead you are sitting in the dark?  How can you determine the limits of your RV electrical systems?

There are 3 electrical systems in your RV

• 12 Volt DC (direct current - automotive type battery) that runs the exterior running lights, stop lights and turn signals of your coach.  On a trailer they are powered through the 7 way pin connector from your tow vehicle. On a motorized unit they are powered by your chassis alternator and battery just like your car.
• 12 Volt DC (direct current - deep cycle battery type) that powers all the 12 volt lights, fresh water pump, circuit boards for your appliances, propane detector, room slide outs and powered leveling jacks. The converter (fancy battery charger) that takes 120 volts AC like we have at home wall receptacles and changes it to 12 volts DC for this deep cycle battery.
• 120 Volts AC (alternating current like we have at home) that powers the air conditioner, microwave, electric element in the water heater, ceiling fans and wall receptacles and the AC to DC converter.  This 120 Volts AC gets its power from the 30 or 50 amp power cord we plug into the pedestal shore power or generator.

Most electrical products have a label or plate on them that list voltage, amperage and sometimes the watts it will use.  What does all that mean?

Voltage – is the “push” that the electricity has.  Voltage is the same to electricity that water pressure is to a water system.  Voltage is either 12 volts DC (direct current) or 120 volts AC.

Amperage - is the flow of electricity.  Amperage is the same to electricity as gallons of water flow is to a water system.  The size and length of the wire carrying the amperage or current determines how much flow we can have.

Wattage or Watts – is the power of the work that can be done.  Watts is figured by taking the voltage and multiplying it by the amperage.

Every electrical device has a wattage or power rating.  For example: We rate our generators by the wattage they produce.

Recreational Vehicles come with one of two power cords.  The power cord is either rated at 30 amp or 50 amp at 120 volts AC.

50 amp & 30 amp Power Cord

So if you Rig has a 30 Amp power cord, you will have a 3,600 Watts or 3.6 KW (kilowatts) to run all your 120 volt AC appliances.

The 30 Amp power cord has a black wire as it power leg, white wire as its neutral leg and a green ground wire.

If you Rig has a 50 Amp power cord, you will have 12,000 Watts or 12 KW (kilowatts). Yes you read that correctly….12,000 Watts of Power available to use.

The 50 Amp power cord has 2 hot or power legs.  One is black and the other is red.  Each hot leg is capable of carrying 50 Amps.  One white wire is the neutral and the other wire is the green ground wire.

Typically, motor homes and 5th wheels will have the 50 amp power cord to handle their power requirements.  It is the ‘extra’ power that allows you to operate that 2nd air conditioner.

It is surprising how fast your AMPS add up which cause your circuit breaker to trip. Sometimes the individual circuit breaker for those powers appliances will trip other times it is the main circuit breaker that goes.  When you locate that tripped ciricuit breaker you flip it to the OFF position then back to the ON position.

Typical Power Requirements for your RV Devices

Air Condition – 15,000 BTU                       12.5 amps x 120 volts= 1,500 watts

(your air conditioner will somtimes pull 20 to 30 amps to get started)

Electric Water Heater – 6 gallon               12.5 amps x 120 volts= 1,500 watts

Microwave Oven                                             12.8 amps x 120 volts= 1,536 watts

Electric Coffee Pot                                                9 amps x 120 volts= 1,080 watts

Toaster                                                                   10 amps x 120 volts= 1,200 watts

Hair Dryer                                                             10 amps x 120 volts= 1,200 watts

TV                                                                               2 amps x 120 volts=     240 watts

Dirt Devil hand vacuum                                    2 amps x 120 volts=     240 watts

Electric Frying pan                                          10 amps x 120 volts=  1,200 watts

Iron                                                                        10 amps x 120 volts=1,200 watts

Food Processor                                                     6 amps x 120 volts=  720 watts

Crock Pot                                                              1.5 amps x 120 volts=   180 watts

Heating Pad                                                           .5 amps x 120 volts=      60 watts

Take a minute and  figure how much power you are using. It is suprising how fast it adds up. You can trip your breaker and be in the dark.

We must become good managers of our power usage so we can enjoy the RVing Lifestyle.

It’s our job to help you keep your wheels rolling…we’ll see you down the highway!!!

Order the 6 hour Electrical Course by clicking here!

Take a look at this episode of Ask the Professor with RVNN.TV …where we talk about several subjects.  Look for my other recordings – all on RV Maintenance.

Happy RVing,

Terry Cooper

The Texas RV Professor

*check out the Professor’s new RV Air Conditioner Maintenance DVD in his bookstore*

The Air Conditioner on top of a Recreational Vehicle is one of the most overworked and under serviced appliances on the coach. A few simple procedures will help keep your unit operating at its peak performance.

Efficiency of Your Air Conditioner

Testing the Operation or DELTA T – A simple test with a thermometer will help tell you how your unit is operating.

1. Turn on the air conditioner and allow it to operate for at least 15 to 20 minutes so it can start cool the coach.
2. Take a pocket thermometer and insert into the return air grill of the unit – typically where the air filter is. Let it read for about 5 to 6 minutes. Note this temperature reading
3. Take the thermometer and insert in the air register that is closest to the air conditioner. Let it read for 5 to 6 minutes.
4. Compare the Return Air Temperature with the Discharge Air Temperature – this temperature difference is the efficiency of the unit or the Delta T
5. If the unit is operating properly you should see an approximate difference of temperatures of 14 to 22 degrees F.

Note: If you are in desert area the temperature will be higher as the unit only has to cool the air not strip moisture from the air.

      If you are in an area that has high humidity you will see a lower Delta T or temperature        difference due to the unit stripping the moisture from the air. You will also have a larger    amount of condensation dripping off the coach.

Cleaning the Air Filter(s) – the air filter of the unit is usually a very basic foam or screen type of filter.

*Cleaning is based upon the conditions where you are. More dust – More often

*Full Timers should inspect filter at least every 2 weeks.

Cleaning

1. Remove the filter assembly
2. Take outside of coach and dust off with hand
3. Take a pail of soapy water and dip and clean
4. Rinse with fresh water
5. Allow to dry
6. Before reinstalling the filter(s) inspect the coils that are now exposed. – these coils are the heat exchangers that take the warmer air and strip out the heat and cool it down so it can blown into the coach.
7. If there is dirt and debris – take a damp rag and gently wipe down the coils- CAUTION they will have sharp edges. Be careful not bend the fins.
8. Reinstall the air filter assembly.

 On the Roof

Coil Straightening The outside coils sometimes get bent due to tree limbs or during hail storms. They can be straighten to increase the efficiency of the air conditioning unit.

1. Access the roof of your coach – CAUTION: Always be aware of where you are on the roof of your RV. Find the rafters and step on them and be aware of the sometimes slippery conditions of the roof. – HOW close to the edge are you?
2. Take a fin comb and gently begin to work with a down ward manner straightening the fins. This task is one of patience and requires that you be gentle. This is no place to be a gorilla!!!
3. If you find fins that are excessive attempt to straighten them with a screw driver and needle nose pliers….here again patience and being gentle pays off.
4. As you straighten the coils realize you are opening the air flow path for the heat exchange of the Freon gas that is flowing inside of the tubes. Every inch you can straighten will increase the efficiency of air conditioning unit.

The Professors Law of Air Conditioning that he teaches his students is…..

In order to have cool air inside you must let the hot air out!!!!

It’s our job to help keep your wheels rolling….we’ll see you on down the highway!

Check out the Professor’s New RV Air Conditioner Maintenance DVD by going to his store at

www.MobileRVAcademy.com

March 29, 2010 Heber Springs, AR – Workamper News, declares April as being Workamper Education Awareness Month. Starting off on Thursday, April 1st – Workamper University’s Instructors; Jaimie Hall Bruzenak of RV Lifestyle Experts and Terry Cooper of Mobile RV Academy are holding an informative Webinar on the benefits of RV education and specials being offered through the University.

Steve Anderson, Editor of Workamper News explains. “After 23 years of helping thousands of great people find great jobs at great places, I know one thing never changes: Education is priceless! Whether someone is dreaming to jump out into the Workamper lifestyle in the near future or has been Workamping for some time now, the lack of education can cause the road to be full of obstacles that will interfere and delay that great workamper experience that everyone is looking for. With that in mind, we are promoting RV education Awareness in the entire month of April with several planned events and discounts that I encourage everyone to take advantage of.”

“All individual Prerecorded Educational Webinars, taught by the University Instructors, are being discounted 15% off the regular prices. Plus, we are encouraging everyone to attend the three planned Live Webinar Events scheduled for April 1st, 13th and 29th to receive even deeper discounts up to 25% off. With these incentives, there is no excuse for not making the commitment of becoming educated about the RV lifestyle and RV maintenance. Education always heightens the opportunities for success. It’s our job to help anyone become a successful Workamper.” says Anderson.

Andersons encourages all to attend the first planned Live Event, April 1st, 2010 at 7p.m. Central Time. Sign up for the 75 minute webinar at: https://www2.gotomeeting.com/register/392727818

To purchase any of the pre-recorded RV educational courses, please visit: http://www.workamper.com/WKN2008_university/index.cfm

For additional information, please visit www.Workamper.com or call the business office at (800) 446-5627 during the hours of 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. M-F. For over 23 years: Workamper News has been helping Great People …find Great Jobs …at Great Places.

As in all things that are done well we need a system or a procedure that we need to follow so we do not forget anything. With each coach being a little different sometimes a standard checklist for one make and model may not apply for your specific unit. 

The following checklist is to help you develop your own list for your specific RV. This list may not be a comprehensive list but will help you set up a plan to prepare your unit for the cold winter months. Personally, I like to start at the top and work my way down. I prefer to go from the outside to the inside of RV.

Roof Area – Think Safety !!!!!!

• Use Dicor or one of the other approved roof sealants. Limit your usage of silicone caulk.

• Roof patch material can go a long way to seal damaged areas to buy you time so you can determine if you need a roof replacement.

• Take photos of any damage

 ___ Wash the roof and exterior of your coach with non-petroleum based cleaners.

 ___ Inspect the condition of the roof material. You are looking for surface cracks or the alligator look of the membrane material

___ Inspect the seals and seams. Pay particular attention to the edges and seams on the front and rear of your coach for separations and for and scrapes that may occurred in your travels.

 ___ Inspect around the vents and skylights. A small crack or pin hole here can cause big $$ in repairs.

____ Inspect around the TV and radio antennas. If you have satellite look for areas of water pooling.

___ Inspect the refrigerator vents and sewer vent caps. Look for damaged or missing components.

Air Conditioner – Upper unit(s)

 ___ Check the coils for bend or damaged fins. A simple straightening of the fins can greatly improve the efficiency of the unit.

___ Check the cover for cracks or damage.

Exterior Walls and Doors

 ___ Look for evidence of wall damage.

___ Inspect around the awning rail and support brackets. These areas are places that water comes into the sidewalls and causes interior rot and wall separations.

 ___ Look for any areas that the awning may be trying to pull away from the sidewall/roof area.

___ Inspect around the tops and sides of the windows and doors. Look for dried or missing sealants.

 ___ Inspect the gutter rails. This may the time to see if you need to install the scuppers on the ends to carry away the water.

___ Access doors and water heater doors areas. Inspect for areas where sealants are missing or have dried and pulled away.

Slide-Out Units

___ Extend the slide outs and monitor their movement. Look for any areas that are dragging or not running smoothly.

___ Inspect for damage and the condition as you would a roof. Slide out roof materials are usually the same as the coach roof.

___ Inspect the corners and edges of the “box”. Cracks and separations allow water to come in.

___ Inspect the trim and gaskets. This is a good time to put gasket lubricate on them.

Nose Cones and Rear Caps

 ___ Inspect for any crack or holes.

___ Inspect the seams and joints. Sealants may have dried and cracked.

 Jacks and Stabilizers

___ Look for bent or damaged units.

___ Lubricate the moving parts.

Interior of the Coach

• Top to bottom and front to rear inspection. Room to Room.

 • Now is the time to really look behind and inside of the cabinets and closets.

___ Inspect the ceilings and walls. Water damage may show up here.

___ Inspect cabinets and doors. Look for damaged drawer glides, latches and hinges.

 ___ Inspect the cabinets for separation or any water damage.

Fresh Water System

• Only use non toxic antifreeze – usually need 2 to 3 gallons for the average coach.

• Water heater by pass kit.

• Determine whether you are going to use the water pump to pull antifreeze into the water lines or to use the backfill method from a faucet.

• Turn off the water heater – allow the water to cool. Think Safety!!!!

___ Disconnect the fresh water city water hook up

 ___ Turn off the water pump

 ___ Open the drain valve to the fresh water tank

___ Open the hot water and cold water drains. In some cases there may be a plug rather than a valve.

 ___ Remove the water filter cartridge or use canister plug to by pass the filter assembly.

 ___ Open the drain plug on Water Heater and drain the tank.

___ Flush toilet. By operating the toilet you are releasing water that is inside the flush mechanism.

 ___ Unscrew shower hoses and allow water to drain out. * Don’t forget to drain shower hose of the exterior shower.

 ___ Open all faucets through out the coach.

Waste Tanks

 ___ Drain the tanks. Black first and then the Gray and Galley tanks.

 ___ Flush Rinse the tanks with a wand or tank washer.

___ Inspect the valve assemblies. It may be time to replace the blade valve and gaskets.

 ___ From the monitor panel check the sensor probes for correct reading. You may need to re-rinse the tanks to clean the probes. If after rinsing and you still have a problem you may need to troubleshoot the sensors and monitor panel.

 Antifreeze Installation

 ___ Turn the Water Heater By-Pass valves in position to by-pass the tank.

___ Using the pump or the back fill method now draw the antifreeze into the water lines.

___ Close the each faucet as antifreeze appears.

 ___ Flush the toilet to draw antifreeze into the flush mechanism.

___ Pour antifreeze down each drain into the P-Trap Propane System

___ Turn off the DOT cylinders or the ASME tank

___ Remove DOT cylinders if local codes or storage facilities require.

Appliances Water Heater

 ___ Should still be turned off from draining but make sure it is not operating

___ Install wasp screens over the vent

OR

 ___ Cut out cardboard to cover and tape the opening then close door.

Furnace

___ Turn off the furnace at the Wall Thermostat

 ___ Install wasp screens over the vent

OR

 ___ Tape over or foil over the inlet and outlet of the furnace.

 Refrigerator

 ___ Remove all perishables from the refrigerator

___ Turn off the refrigerator

 ___ Install spacers to block the door(s) open for air circulation.

___ Install cardboard insert in the air intake of the side wall vent

OR

 ___ Install wasp screens over the holes of the vent panel

Range

___ Turn off the range

 ___ Clean the surface and the grease catch panel.  Help keep rodents out.

Electrical Power Systems

12 Volt DC System

Option #1 Leaving Batteries in place – * the batteries must remained charged

___ Fill the batteries with distilled water

___ Fully charge the batteries

___ Hook up a solar panel trickle charger to maintain the batteries

OR

___ Hook up a battery trickle charger that is powered by 120 volts

Option #2 Removing Batteries

___ Fill batteries with distilled water

___ Place batteries on a trickle charger to maintain their voltage level

120 Volt AC

 ___ Turn off panel box circuit breakers

 ___ Unplug coach power cord from pedestal power source

___ Cover or store the cord out of the weather.

Generator

___ Clean

___ Add fuel stabilizer

___ Start and run the generator to draw stabilizer into carburetor

 ___ Plug exhaust pipe with tape or steel wool

 ___ Unscrew spark plug(s) and spray engine fogger oil to lubricate cylinder * this is one of those personal preference issues.

Placement of Coach

 ___ Place coach tires on plywood sheets or plastic panels to prevent ground to tire contact.

OR * another personal preference issue

___ Lift coach up off the ground to not allow tires to touch

___ Install tire covers to block sun light UV deterioration of the side walls of the tires.

___ Install coach canvas cover over the body of the coach. * another personal preference issue.

Motor Home Specifics

___ Test engine antifreeze strength.

Service per manufacturer recommendations

 ___ Check windshield washer fluid – drain and/or fill with non toxic antifreeze

___ Top off fuel tanks

___ Add fuel stabilizer

___ Start engine up and draw fuel stabilizer into the fuel carburetor or fuel injectors

 ___ Unscrew spark plugs and spray engine fogger oil to lubricate cylinders * this is one of those personal preference issues.

___ Block exhaust pipe(s) with tape or steel wool